![]() ![]() The stem of the T | is what you see with the Teflon tape and brass tube going upwards and out to the interior cabin wheres my cheap oil pressure gauge. right arm of the T under the wireloom, is the P/S/I oil pressure kill switch. left arm has a 6" threaded brass tube extended down to the oil hole in the top rear block back by the transmission. If you think of a capital letter T, I have the T on its head / upside down. This pic is for furyus67 - he wanted to see whats doin at the T. ![]() (P) = this is going to go to the relay #86 Something that comes on only when the key is turned and you are driving down the road. (I) = i wired this to the heater fuse in the fuse box. This will run the pump when you are cranking. the bottom of the T with 6" extension goes to block, one side goes back to my regular oil gauge, and the other side is where the pressure kill switch is. I got a brass T and a 6" long 1/8" male/male brass tube. I extended off my existing oil pressure gauge hookup spot on the top rear of the block by the firewall. With the relay we are going to dedicate power to the pump so it doesnt have to draw off some other thing.Ī bit of teflon tape for the brass threads at the oil pressure hookup.ġ/8" Brass T and extension tube from lowes plumbing section. Get a (depending on pump amps) 5A inline fuse. You also need some fork or loop connectors for your GND and + wires. you need 7 to connect the switch and relay. there are others out there too, get a 3 prong switch with (S)tarter (I)gnition and (P)ump connections. Get an oil pressure cut off / kill switch. we dont use the prong in the middle, so its all good. Get a 12v 30A relay napa#AR279SB or any other relay. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. Archives
January 2023
Categories |